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Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Cosmetic Ingredients - How much is in there?


We're all more aware of what we put on our skin, or in our mouths these days. Choosing cosmetics that are safe and full of helpful ingredients can be a daunting task. First of all, some of the words are only pronounceable by a Doctorate in English or science. But even if we can say the words, what are we getting? And how much of it?

Cosmetics, including cleansers and creams, mineral makeup, lotions and potions, are regulated by the FDA in the USA. All ingredient lists must be listed from greater to smaller percents of usage. In other words, the first ingredient will always comprise the largest percent of that product. (colorants and flavors are the exception and can be listed in the "may contain" area, to protect manufacturers formulas.

So, if you are wanting a product with a lot of aloe vera in it, you'd look for that ingredient pretty high up in the list. If water is the first ingredient and aloe is the 6th or 7th, you can be sure the product is mostly water. This info can be really helpful when you are looking for specific ingredients for your skin or health.

This also helps explain why certain products are more costly than others, even though they have the "same" ingredients. You cannot tell how much of an ingredient is in that product, simply by reading the list!


Normally the last ingredient on the list is either a trace quantity (not enough to require measurement) or 1-2% of that product. Now that doesn't always mean there's not enough to be effective, just because it's last.
Most cosmetic formulators (including us) follow the manufacturers recommended usage rates.

Allantoin, a natural antiseptic and skin soother, is in our Valley Girl mineral foundation. It has a recommended usage rate of .5-2% of the formula. Adding more will NOT be more effective, any less will be ineffective. The FDA does not regulate inclusion rates, therefore formulators depend on information and data from their suppliers, chemists, estheticians and manufacturers.

Lately the market has been bombarded with "mineral makeup". Or powders made "with minerals". Often times promoted as "made with pure mineral pigments". The word WITH is the keyword here. With what else? And how much of it is minerals?

Hint here: mineral pigment is generally less than 3% of the total product. So if that fancy new makeup is made with mineral pigments, it will probably be last or close to last on the list, and be some type of iron oxide.

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